Collection 04 - “SU"

Su is a word derived from Proto-Turkic, and its etymological meaning is water, reflecting spirituality as a mirror of the soul.

Today, cameras have replaced mirrors, becoming the tools through which we see and are seen.

Collection 04 begins a new conversation with tailored jackets inspired by the traditional Chepken—a woman’s vest that is part of a larger outfit. These pieces feature a simple and plain surface, cut from wool and bouclé, referencing both tradition and artisanal tailoring. Women’s communities in the southeastern Azerbaijani districts of Masallı and Lankaran contributed to the development of the collection’s final looks. These are mostly hand-woven using Typha Latifolia, commonly known as rush. Traditionally, these plants were woven into carpets, fences, baskets, and household items. The women harvest rushes from the wetlands along the Caspian Sea, dry them, and weave them into forms projected by the designer, which are later transformed into wearable objects. This collaboration marks another step forward in INSTITUTION’s expanding community-driven craftsmanship network in the Caucasus. The handweaving technique used in these pieces is inspired by the designer's Azerbaijani community in Georgia, resembling the carpet-making traditions of Borchaly. However, instead of wool, the pieces are made from cotton shoelaces, symbolizing the brand’s DNA. As this craft faces decline, the designer seeks to support the transfer of knowledge between generations by actively involving local women’s communities.

The collection features monochrome, hand-knotted, and fringed pieces, mixed with hand-knitted items and alternating knotting styles typical of Caucasian carpet traditions. Some items are hand-knitted by a small Azerbaijani community in Georgia, highlighting the collection's focus on craftsmanship. The sculpted, hand-woven piece, made from sustainable denim cloth, is also part of S|STYLE, a project powered by the Kering Material Innovation Lab.

During the show, the unique piece is created while using Insta360 action cameras that record the audience as the model passes by—a reversal of the observation dynamic in modern society. The viewer becomes the subject, and the gaze shifts outward.

INSTITUTION is a creative project established by Galib Gassanoff to express his personal and aesthetic connection to the cultures he is part of. Operating as a social-artistic organisation with an ethical foundation, INSTITUTION reaches beyond fashion. The name itself references the broader role of an institution: A humanly devised structure of rules and norms that shape and constrain individual behaviour. All definitions of institutions carry the idea of persistence and continuity - values reflected in the work. Galib Gassanoff, the founder and creative director of INSTITUTION, is a Georgian of Azerbaijani descent, raised on the outskirts of Tbilisi, immersed in a world of contrasting languages, crafts, and traditions. At eighteen, he moved to Milan to pursue fashion education and professional experience. He founded INSTITUTION in 2024 as a platform for cultural reflection, community collaboration, and artistic exploration.