Collection 03 - "EL"

In Turkic languages, "EL" refers to a specific community or group of people, often implying a sense of belonging to a shared cultural or social identity. "EL " is also used to describe a tribe or ethnic group, typically united by common heritage, culture, or language. As a native speaker of Azerbaijani Turkish and a member of the "EL" community, this chapter explores identity, bloodline, and deep inner self under the spotlight of the creator.

Ancestors practiced transhumance in the Caucasus for centuries, with the great-grandfather being one of the last shepherds in the family. Wool, fur, carpets, and knits have always been predominant and essential in the household. The debut runway show is set in the rooms of the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum, featuring a slow tempo to provide an insightful glimpse into the craftsmanship and construction of the pieces, many of which were cut and assembled by the designer himself. Natural fibers such as silk, cotton, wool, and leather are the main materials used.

The handweaving technique used in the garments is inspired by the designer's community of Azerbaijanis in Georgia. This technique resembles the carpet-making traditions of Borchaly but employs an alternative material: cotton shoelaces, which symbolize the DNA of INSTITUTION. As this skill is at risk of being lost, the designer seeks to support the generational transfer by involving local women's communities in crafting the collections, ensuring employment and preserving this valuable craft.

INSTITUTION is a creative project founded by Galib Gassanoff to express his personal and aesthetic connection to the cultures he is part of. It operates as a social-artistic organization with an ethical foundation. The name "INSTITUTION" itself reflects the project's larger scope beyond fashion. An institution is a humanly devised structure of rules and norms that shapes and constrains individual behavior. All definitions of institutions entail a level of persistence and continuity.

Galib Gassanoff, founder and creative director of INSTITUTION, is a Georgian of Azerbaijani descent, raised in the outskirts of Tbilisi amidst contrasting cultures and languages, immersed in the craft and traditions of local ethnic groups. At eighteen, he moved to Milan to further his fashion education and experiences, where, in 2016, he co-founded and co-designed ACT N°1 until the MFW SS2023 show before founding INSTITUTION in 2024.